Dubrovnik Travel Guide: A Laid-Back Escape to Croatia’s Seaside Fortress
If you’re searching for a city that offers great seafood, clean sea air and walkable history, this Dubrovnik travel guide might be all you need to start planning. With its terracotta rooftops, winding lanes and Adriatic backdrop, Dubrovnik has become a go-to for travellers looking for something that feels quietly special without trying too hard.
The best place to take it all in? Mount Srd. From the top, the Old Town unfolds like a miniature set piece, impossibly neat, enclosed by ancient walls and facing out towards sea. You can hike it if you’re keen, but the cable car makes the journey easier (around £23 return) and the view more relaxed, especially with a cold drink at Panorama Restaurant.
Down in the harbour, early-morning fishing boats compete with tour groups for mooring space, their nets filled with squid and John Dory destined for the city’s many restaurants. One of those is Portun, where we tucked into grilled fish with garlic, a fresh octopus salad and prawn-filled ravioli. It’s low-key but polished, and the food’s as fresh as you’d hope. Expect to pay around £33 for three generous courses.
Wandering through the Old Town, its layout unchanged for centuries, feels effortless. Cobbled streets, modest churches and peaceful courtyards have a way of drawing you in. Nothing is rushed here, and there’s always a shaded bench or a quiet café just when you need one.
A short boat ride (£26 return) takes you to Lokrum Island, where botanical gardens, peacocks and a saltwater lake offer a natural counterpoint to the city’s stone and sunlight. It’s an easy day out, with plenty of space to swim or do very little.
Back on the mainland, locals and visitors queue for gelato at Aroma, salted pistachio being the clear favourite. Later in the evening, Gundulic Square becomes a soft hum of people, with restaurants like Pizzeria Castro serving up simple food done well. Their margherita pizza (£11) and Graševina white wine (£41.50 per bottle) made for an ideal pre-sunset dinner.
However, the standout tip of the trip came from a couple at the next table, who sent us to Buza Bar. You get there by walking through a small gap in the city wall. No signs, no fanfare, just a tucked-away ledge overlooking the sea, where locals dive into the water below and the wine comes in tins. It’s one of those places that doesn’t try to be anything and ends up being perfect.
We stayed at Rixos Premium Dubrovnik, a five-star hotel built into the cliffside, about 20 minutes from the Old Town. The sea-view room had a Jacuzzi and a walk-in wardrobe, but the real treat was the breakfast, local cheeses, fresh fruit, and just about anything else you could want before heading out to explore.
Snorkelling off the rocks below the hotel revealed octopus and crabs moving through Croatia’s famously clear waters. Later, with a pint of local lager (£6) and a grilled shrimp Caesar salad (£27) from the pool bar, we ended the day with a walk along Sunset Beach and live violin music under a full moon.
This Dubrovnik travel guide is about swimming, eating, slowing down and finding something memorable in the spaces between.
For practical tips on exploring Dubrovnik’s historic Old Town and nearby islands, the Croatian National Tourist Board offers up-to-date visitor information and travel guidance.
For more updates on short breaks, food-led travel and coastlines worth seeing, visit EyeOnLondon. We’d love to hear your views in the comments.
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