Claro: 5 Reasons This Middle Eastern Marvel Defines St James’s Dining

Claro is proudly situated in Piccadilly, just a pebble’s throw from the traditional Clubland of London, not far from the Reform or RAC Club. This Middle Eastern restaurant has journeyed from Tel Aviv to St James’s, inspired by chef Ran Shmueli, the owner and founder of the group. Their mission is to serve “Contemporary Mediterranean food with Middle Eastern influences.” The London menu is a slightly tweaked version of its hugely successful Israeli parent.

To say the food is a surprise does not do it justice. The menu takes classics and makes them fly, making each dish distinctive and fulfilling, setting Claro apart from other restaurants.

The restaurant occupies a light-filled, double-height space that was once a bank. The mezzanine floor above offers sumptuous private dining and function rooms worthy of opulence. The dominating windows look out on bustling St James’s, capturing the passing West End life. Comfortable booths and chairs create an inviting atmosphere, made even better by the smiles and warm welcome of Karalind, a wonderfully knowledgeable host who guides you through Claro’s ethos and, most importantly, the food.

Starters to Satisfy Every Taste

A tasting plate of Frena bread, Garden bruschetta, and fried Brussels sprouts with caper aioli (£9 each) is an absolute winner. The Brussels sprouts elevate this seasonal staple to stratospheric heights. For something bolder, the Chilli tasting plate (£9) offers fiery flavours, though not for the faint-hearted.

If you’re feeling more adventurous, try the Hand-picked scallops with wild mushroom, salsify cream, and sage butter sauce (£26). Generously portioned, these are prepared with a home and heartfelt love of Middle Eastern cuisine.

Exceptional Mains

Pace yourself when ordering the Venison tartar with yellow gazpacho (£22). This dish is a delicate nod to Northern Europe, while the Octopus and beetroot carpaccio (£24) is an bold Eastern feast.

As a signature dish, the Pork rib with romesco, green leaves, crispy onions, and caramel vinegar sauce (£28) delivers on crunch and flavour. The cooking technique is practised and the flavours memorable. For those craving fish, the Smoked pink trout with potato salad, green beans, scallions, and white horseradish cream (£32) sends shudders down your spine in a good way! They say we eat with our eyes first, and when the pink trout is served, it practically demands, “Eat me.” Butter-roasted stuffed cabbage with za’atar, burger, and date honey (v) (£22), stands out for its unique and exciting combination of flavours. Meanwhile, the Pan-Seared Lemon Sole (£14) is a classic choice, ideal for Club-going traditionalists seeking a refined yet affordable option.

For traditionalists, the Pan-seared lemon sole (£14) is perfect for those accustomed to Clubland’s classic dishes.

A Middle Eastern Soul

At its heart and soul, Claro embodies the essence of Middle Eastern cuisine, particularly in its meat dishes. But it’s not just about the flavours—it’s about a cooking approach that combines the Tagine’s rich, slow-cooked techniques with the griddle’s smoky char to create a texture and taste that are unmistakable. This like a good rum punch doesn’t always travel well. Yet, Claro has achieved this beautifully. In the case of Claro they have succeeded and with the first bite, the Lamb Platter featuring tzatziki, matbucha, pickled vegetables, and warm pita bread, transports you high over the Sea of Galilee, where the air filled with the sounds of olive trees blowing in the warm wind and the smell of pines. All for two at £88.

Drinks and Desserts

Claro’s wine cellar is extensive yet not intimidating. A Louis Seabra Vintage Douro 2023 (£64) from Portugal is a fruity but dry accompaniment to any dish, even the Lamb. Claro’s wine cellar is extensive yet not intimidating. The fruit holds it fullness over all the courses. For red wine enthusiasts, the list boasts an excellent selection of Bourgogne options.

Cocktails are inventive and refreshing. The LUNA, made with vodka and passion fruit (£14), is a delightful prelude to the meal.

Make room for a pudding and nothing surpasses the Bread and Butter pudding. If food can make you travel then Claro is a gastronomic magic carpet ride through the East.

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