History of the Bra: A Look Through Fashion’s Most Transformative Undergarment

The history of the bra stretches back centuries, evolving alongside fashion and cultural shifts. Though bras may seem like a modern invention, women have been wearing garments to support their chests since ancient times. From the strophium worn by Roman women to today’s highly engineered sports bras, the journey of this essential piece of clothing reflects broader changes in society, culture, and technology. Join us as we explore the fascinating history of the bra and its impact on women’s lives.

Ancient Origins of Breast Support

The history of the bra can be traced to ancient times. Roman women wore a bandeau-like garment called the strophium, which provided chest support. Around the same period, similar items appeared in ancient India, suggesting that the concept of chest support for women was not limited to one culture. Valerie Steele, Director of The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology, notes, “No one person invented the bra; it was developed in different places and improved upon over time.”

The Corset: Centuries of Constriction

By the 1500s, the corset had emerged as a staple in European fashion, shaping women’s figures with tightly laced fabric and rigid “stays” made of wood, whalebone, or metal. Corsets dominated the history of the bra for nearly 500 years, offering a narrow waistline and emphasising the breasts. Yet, as fashion evolved, so did the methods of chest support. By the late 19th century, women began to seek alternatives to the restrictive corset.

The Invention of the Modern Bra

In 1869, French inventor Herminie Cadolle introduced a revolutionary garment at the Paris World Expo, cutting the corset in half and creating an upper section to support the chest, which she called a “soutien-gorge” (still the French term for a bra). This design laid the foundation for the modern bra. Then, in 1914, American socialite Mary “Polly” Phelps Jacob patented the backless brassiere, sparking a new era in the history of the bra.

World War I: The Bra Takes Hold

The demands of World War I pushed women to abandon the corset in favour of more practical undergarments. Working in factories and other war-related industries made corsets impractical, and metal shortages led to a reduction in corset production. Instead, bras like Edgar Guggenheim’s bandeau-style bra, which provided a flatter silhouette, became popular. The history of the bra evolved as practicality and comfort took precedence over rigid structure.

The Rise of Cup Sizes and Nylon

In the 1930s, bras with cup sizes were introduced, making it easier for women to find a comfortable fit. Brands like Warner popularised the alphabetical cup sizing system, which remains the standard today. Then, in the 1940s, the introduction of nylon revolutionised underwear, making bras more affordable and accessible. Lightweight and durable, nylon allowed bras to become a common garment for women of all classes, truly democratizing the history of the bra.

Bullet Bras and the Iconic Wonderbra

By the 1950s, the “Sweater Girl” look took Hollywood by storm, and bullet bras became the must-have undergarment for achieving a defined, conical shape. This era also saw the invention of the padded bra by Frederick Mellinger of Frederick’s of Hollywood. In 1964, Canadian designer Louise Poirier created the Wonderbra, which pushed up the breasts to create cleavage, further transforming the history of the bra. The Wonderbra surged back into popularity in the 1990s, with iconic advertising campaigns solidifying its place in popular culture.

The Sports Bra: Supporting Women in Motion

The 1970s marked a turning point with the invention of the sports bra, developed by Lisa Z. Lindahl, Polly Smith, and Hinda Miller. Using two jockstraps sewn together, they created the Jogbra, providing women with the support needed for physical activity. Lindahl explained, “The sports bra dealt with the barriers young women faced in sports, offering support and reducing self-consciousness.” This innovation changed the history of the bra, allowing women greater freedom and comfort in athletic pursuits.

Bras Today: Innovation and Inclusivity

Today, the history of the bra continues to evolve, with advancements in materials like Spandex and the popularity of wireless and sports bras. Modern bras cater to diverse needs, offering options for every body type, activity level, and fashion preference. From bras that provide the illusion of going braless to those that offer full support during high-impact activities, the bra has become an emblem of both fashion and function.

The Future of the Bra

As women’s lifestyles continue to change, so does the role of the bra. In recent years, the focus has shifted towards comfort, body positivity, and inclusivity. Brands are now offering extended sizing, adaptive bras, and eco-friendly materials. The history of the bra reflects women’s journey towards self-expression and empowerment, making it a symbol of resilience and change.

To explore more about the history of the bra and fashion evolution, visit the Victoria and Albert Museum’s Fashion Collection.