A Weekend Guide to Warsaw
Just two hours’ flying time away, Warsaw is elegant, fun and full of impressive architecture. The food is great, the people are friendly and almost all of them speak English, which is just as well because my Polish is non-existent.
I flew with LOT, the national carrier, from Heathrow to Warsaw’s Chopin airport, named after the famous composer and pianist.
From there it was a twenty-minute drive to the Hotel Indigo, home for my short stay. It’s spacious, comfortable, in the centre of the city and ideally placed for exploring on foot. It also offers one of the best breakfast menus I have seen, with almost everything freshly prepared to order. I’m happy to confirm that Crêpes Suzette and a glass of Prosecco really set you up for the day.
The hotel is at one end of the Royal Route, the city’s most famous street. The pedestrianised thoroughfare connects three former residences of Polish rulers: the Royal Castle, the Royal Łazienki and the Wilanów Palace.
I admired the many elegant buildings that line the route, including the Polish Academy of Sciences. Near the southern end is the Holy Cross Church. The main church was built between 1679 and 1696. Following his death in Paris in 1849, Chopin’s heart was returned to Warsaw and interred here. The church was badly damaged in 1944 and restored between 1945 and 1953.
There are a number of black benches along the route. As well as providing somewhere to sit, they include buttons which, when pressed, allow people to hear some of Chopin’s music being played through small speakers.
By night, the Royal Route became party central. Restaurants of all types spilled onto the street. Musicians played, entertainers entertained, and crowds of people walked up and down, dressed to impress. It reminded me a little of London at its ‘80s best, stylish and fun. You won’t find too many tracksuits and trainers here—the rah-rah and the miniskirt are alive and well in Warsaw.
I enjoyed dinner at U Wieniawy, at the other end of the Royal Route from the hotel. The restaurant was inspired by General Wieniawa and the elegance and style of pre-war Warsaw.
Guests are advised: “In the event that a dispute of honour has occurred, the involved Gentlemen are requested to duel outside the premises.” The ambience was lovely and the food and service top class.
On the subject of food, Poland’s national dish is Pierogi. These are small dumplings which come with a range of fillings and toppings. At U Wieniawy, my pierogi were filled with meat and topped with sour cream and bacon slices. Delicious—I can definitely recommend them!
I also enjoyed a late breakfast at Dej Bakery. Founded by two young women in one room of a parent’s house, it produces top-quality fresh bread and pastries and is now so popular it occupies the whole house, employs fifteen people and generates long queues each morning. Its success is one of many examples of the positive atmosphere in the city.
Poland will always be associated with WWII, which started with its invasion by Germany in 1939. The country suffered badly under occupation and was responsible for one of the biggest underground resistance operations when, in August 1944, there was an uprising to get rid of the German occupying forces. The resultant loss of life and destruction of the capital were catastrophic and even today the Warsaw Rising Museum, depicting life and events of the time, is hugely popular with people of all ages.
On a lighter note, Warsaw is also home to the Money Centre, located in the Headquarters of the National Bank of Poland. It’s sometimes seen as a museum but it is so much more—a story about money, trading, how to spot counterfeit money and even a gold bar. Try lifting one and you will never again believe what you see in the movies. In a similar vein, the Vodka Museum traces the 500-year-old history of the famous drink.
Like many capital cities, Warsaw is on a river—the river Vistula. However, unlike other cities, the river has been largely taken for granted until recently. From my river cruise, it was clear that making the most of this natural resource for locals and visitors alike is still a work in progress. However, on a hot, sunny day a couple of small riverside beaches proved popular, as did the cooling sprays mounted in the pavements. Lunch at the nearby Dock 19, with some of the old mechanical elements still visible, was yet another example of the great restaurants and lovely food to be found in the city.
A trip to the Old Town Square was interesting but the fascinating architecture was somewhat obscured by the weekly market that takes place there.
I also visited the Royal Łazienki Gardens. This large park is home to a number of former royal residences and is popular with locals. Cycling is not allowed—a sanctuary from the bikes and e-scooters that seemed to occupy many of the pedestrian areas elsewhere in the city. During the summer, it is also home to outdoor Chopin concerts each Sunday; crowds gathered early around the lake in front of the Chopin monument to find a shady spot to sit and enjoy the music.
There’s a lot to see and do in Warsaw and whilst the written language may be indecipherable to many visitors, English is almost universally spoken and English menus are always available. Welcoming, hospitable and just a short flight away, it’s an ideal location to visit and experience all it has to offer. For more information, visit www.go2warsaw.pl
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[Image Credits: Mike Pickup]
