ST LUCIA: The Only Country Named After a Woman
“There are no straight roads in St Lucia”, said George, as we drove away from St Lucia’s Hewanorra airport. Roads on this Caribbean island, with mountains rising to over three thousand feet, are more like those in the Alps. It takes over two hours to drive from one end of the twenty-six-mile-long island to the other.
GEOGRAPHY
St Lucia’s mountainous terrain was caused by erupting lava and the image of twin Pitons is the one that is most associated with the island. Climbing them has become an international attraction and there are races to see who can do it the fastest.
The airport is in the south of the island but many hotels are in the north. The ninety-minute transfer gives guests an opportunity to see the island in more detail, from rural scenes to the busy, traffic-jammed streets of the capital, Castries.
St Lucia was originally settled by the French in 1660. Fought over by the British and French, it changed hands fourteen times until 1814, leaving the British in control. As a result, the official language is English but French-based Creole is widely spoken; cars drive on the left, as in Britain, but the town names are in French.
ACCOMMODATION
Home for my stay was StolenTime, a lovely hotel on Malabar Beach. It’s close to Castries and the small George F. L. Charles Airport used by inter-island flights, but its proximity did not affect the tranquillity of the hotel. The hundred guest rooms ranged from garden view to beach front. I was in a pool-side room just a short distance from the beach. It housed a huge bed, comfortable chairs, a desk, two wardrobes and a chest of drawers. It led directly to the bathroom which contained a large tub, ‘his and hers’ wash basins and a separate shower. There were tea and coffee making facilities that were regularly topped up as well as an iron, ironing board and umbrella. Well, you do get the occasional tropical storm!
Electricity in St Lucia is the standard 240v and UK square-pin plugs, so I didn’t need my adapter. Outside the room my terrace had patio-style sofas, cushions and a huge sunshade
The hotel’s cool and relaxing main terrace restaurant faced the beach. Alternatives were the a-la-carte Malabar Beach Club for lunch and dinner right on the beach, whilst Thyme, the hotel’s only indoor restaurant, was ideal for an intimate dinner for two. For pre-dinner drinks the Champagne Bar was always popular and after dinner it stayed open until the last guest left.
The hotel was one of the most relaxing and peaceful places I have stayed in, helped by the genuinely happy staff and the fact that there are no TVs in the bedrooms or public rooms. The only TV was in the gym.
However, relaxed doesn’t mean bored. In addition to the main island experiences, the hotel offers a vast range of activities, from cookery demonstrations to archery lessons, and loads of water sports that include diving, hobie cats and kayaks. There is also a spa, gym and tennis courts which are floodlit. You can sit and read a book in complete peace and quiet or fill every minute of the day with activities.
OUT AND ABOUT
Whilst it was tempting to do just that, the island is certainly worth exploring. Perhaps the most popular visitor attraction is chocolate making, so on a visit to the 120-year-old Howelton Estate I gave it a try. Grinding the coffee beans in a mortar and pestle was energetic but satisfying and soon the chocolate mix was liquid and shiny. I decided to add a little mint before it was poured into a mould and popped into the fridge. After enjoying a cold Piton beer, my now solid home-made chocolate bar was expertly wrapped for me to take home.
The island has a huge variety of vegetation and wildlife. I enjoyed the Lushan Country Life trail where an expert guide pointed out herbs and plants and explained their medicinal and culinary uses. He also showed me early cooking devices known as coal pots, and scooped up a huge, friendly black and yellow caterpillar with orange feet that happened to pass by. The Tet Paul nature trail offered more information on plant life and, at the top, a stunning view of the sea and the twin Pitons for which the island is famous.
Another fascinating trip was on an aerial tram through the pleasantly cool mountain rain forest. A guide explained the vegetation as well as spotting a few humming birds along the way. In fact the island is a bird-spotters paradise with over 180 species to be found. They include black finches, orioles and six species that can be found only on the island.
St Lucia owes its mountainous geography to lava erupting from the sea bed. Just outside Soufriere I visited the Caribbean’s only ‘drive-in volcano’, an area with bubbling and steaming sulphur springs and hot grey pools. Visitors can also use the mud baths where, having been artistically covered in volcanic mud, they can soak in naturally heated pools – a process designed to leave the skin fresh and smooth. Don’t forget your swimwear.
Under the banner of Community Tourism, the tourist authority has launched a number of initiatives to persuade tourists to spend more time getting to know the country and to bring welcome additional revenue to the locals. The Kabawe Krawl is a tour of specially selected local bars to sample St Lucia’s culture, food and drink and meet the locals; ‘Kabawe’ is the Creole word for a rum shop. It’s a good job a driver is included.
My visit was over far too soon as George drove me back to the airport. I was left with memories of a unique Caribbean island, mountains, lush greenery, winding roads and, above all, genuinely friendly people who were always ready to help and chat. Just don’t get them started on cricket!
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For more information on St Lucia, visit www.stlucia.org
[Image Credits: Mike Pickup]
